Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Panamá

We saw several of these worker's villages......and miles of banana fields that all belonged to
Chiquita for over an hour as we drove south from Costa Rica to Panamá.

We boated from Changuinola to the Bocas del Toro archipelago...gorgeous!

People living along the water using traditional dugout canoes,
though many of them now have motors.

This is some coral that grew up around the support beams for our hotel.

Although eco-tourism has been heralded as a savior for natural areas such as those mentioned previously, the recurring theme we noticed throughout our travels is that foreign-owned businesses are the backbone of the tourism industry in Central America, which minimizes the financial benefit to the local population by putting them in subordinate roles, working for ex-pats. We tried to support local business as much as possible, but found these services to be less reliable and less aware of what a tourist/backpacker wants (not in every case, we did find some great local-owned businesses). Many of the foreign business owners we spoke to attribute the domination of the tourist industry by foreigners to the locals' inability to afford travel, which denies them the understanding of what travelers want. Additionally, because locals have lived in these places for generations, they sometimes take them for granted and fail to realize what an attractive destination or activity they may have in their own backyard. As one Nicaraguan put it, ‘If locals would never pay to go snorkeling or hiking in the jungle, why should we think you would?’

The Red Frog Beach Club, on Isla Bastimentos, Panama is a great example of an emergent trend in Central America: retirement resorts. The island of Bastimentos has a population of about 1,100 people spread between a small town and an indigenous village. Approximately three percent of the island is currently developed. The majority of the island is made up of pristine beaches and untouched jungles full of birds, sloths and native strawberry poison dart frogs.
A project is currently underway that will change the face of the island forever. A North American developer has purchased nine percent of the total land area of the island and intends to develop a third of that space into 250 homes, 550 condos, two marinas and a resort, as well as several roads, walking trails and potentially a number of other large structures. There were plans for a golf course as well which the Panamanian government recently decided not to allow. If the current plan goes forward, there will be more people living in the Red Frog development than currently populate the entire island. The unique red poison dart frogs that are the beach’s namesake are expected to become extinct if the project is completed, what to speak of the impact thousands of North American retirees would have on local culture.
This little guy and his sister were "borrowing" frogs from the jungle for tips... we traded our chips for a promise to return the frogs to where he found them. His little sister was mad that she didn't get the package despite getting an equal share of Pringles.

We spoke to two local gentlemen who were employed by the Red Frog Beach Club developer and they had predictable responses to our questions. They said that although they had heard of the controversy over the environmental and cultural impacts of the project, they didn’t think much of it. The two men told us that the developers were being “careful” with the forest and beach and that the project would bring much-needed opportunities for economic development in the form of construction jobs and service sector employment. Red Frog Beach Club (RFBC) claims repeatedly on their website (redfrogbeach.com) that they are dedicated to environmental preservation as well as to supporting the local community of Bastimentos and Bocas. A large portion of this support will be in the form of 1,000 new jobs for the locals of the area.
While it is easy to disagree from afar, we can understand why these young men would want access to the opportunities that a mega-development like Red Frog promises. It is our sincere hope that such people will find contentment with the opportunities that they seek, but based on our visits to other heavily developed locations such as Mexico’s Caribbean coast (Cancun is Mexico’s leader in suicide and divorce rates according to a local friend) and Honduras’ Bay Islands, we expect that such opportunities will come at a higher cost to their traditional way of life than they might anticipate. http://www.redfrogbeach.com/

Survivor Panamá was filmed on this beach... and no, we weren't voted off!


Bonnie crossing the border from Panamá back into
Costa Rica to fly home from San José, sad to leave central america, :>(
but happy to head home!

Costa Rica

We visited San José, Cahuita and Manzanillo.
Bon w our friend Amy and a pup.

One of Cahuita's fantastic beaches

Bonnie the black sand ballerina.


Tidepoools in Cahuita.

Roots in the sky!
That's what I call R&R!
Brain coral fossil.

Manzanillo

These guys come to Manzanillo to die once a year...lucky us!

Brown river? Hmmm....

A Jesus lizard, these guys run on water!

That's a chunk of rock stuck inside, the tree has grown around it.
Manzanillo.

Who wouldn't one of these? They only poop once a week, they don't smell and they don't bark (though they can be talkative). Sadly, they only eat certain leaves and some fruits, so that means no pet sloth for you!

This is at the Aviarios Slothe Rescue Center outside Cahuita...well worth the visit.

These guys are 7 and 10 days old...we melted.

Party Sloth says: Wazzzuuup?!What a face!
He liked our camera

This is Buttercup, the queen of the rescue center. Such a sweetheart, kept reaching out to hold our hands. She is a 3-fingered sloth (many people mistakenly call them 2 or 3-toed sloths, but they actually ALL have 3 toes, it's the fingers that are different.) which is a very different animal than the 2 toed, which tend to be bigger, heartier -they eat fruit and possibly bugs as well- and more varied in color. 3 toed's like Buttercup can only eat leaves from the trees they inhabit and they are all colored similarly, except males also have a yellow patch on their backs.
Flying home from Florida... we don't reccomend Spirit Airlines!

Monday, July 7, 2008

Nicaragua

In Nicaragua we visited Ocotal, León, Granada, Isla Ometepe and
El Castillo on the Río San Juan. This posting includes videos of our canopy tour through the jungle...fun stuff!
This is the central park in Ocotal.
The local rodeo was going strong in San Isidro.

Church in León

Notice the serpent sprouts from a base that is labeled "CIA."Another mural depicting fallen martyrs of the Sandinista revolution.
The sign says "Nicaragua will be free when it has children who love her."

The local fire station.


Sandinista propaganda murals in León.
These are of the revolutionary leader Augusto Cesar Sandino.

In remembrance of a massacre.

At Carcel 21, a famous prison where many revolutionaries were tortured and killed.
Today the prison is a museum with displays about local myths and legends. This place had a a very spooky feeling about it.

Depictions of the torture that occurred here.
A statue of a Sandinista revolutionary.

San Juan del Sur

High-tech stereo equipment carried by low-tech oxen and cart.

Bonnie auditions for a Toña beer commerical.

Crabs!

Viking crab!

Surf Crab!

Interesting choice of fragrance.

Granada.



Granada is on the shores of the very dirty-looking Lago de Nicaragua.

Outside Granada.

Gliding through the canopy with a family of howler monkeys.
The big male came and barked at us for being too close!

3 videos of us doing our Tarzan impressions...


One of the two volcanoes that form Isla Ometepe in the middle of
Lago de Nicaragua, central america's largest lake.

We got a ride from the Ometepe ferry to Santo Domingo with Shireesh and Nina who were in the process of travelling from California to Alaska and back down to Chile and Argentina over 15 months. Thanks for the ride guys, and good luck along your way!

Bonnie walks on water.
Kinda looks like India...


These cool birds were common on Ometepe .
As were these "cara blanca" monkeys and howler monkeys.Chowin' on some popcorn from the trash heap.



Our travelling companions for a few days from bottom left: Bonnie, Amy and Darren from Canada, Phillip from Germany, Eva and Anamie from Belgium.

Our ride for 3 cramped hours down the Río San Juan to the town of El Castillo.

A mobile convenience store pulled up to our boat.

The namesake of the town of El Castillo.
Another Spanish fort built to defend against pirate raids.

Someone's outhouse over the river...eeeww!